New York Fashion Week

The curtain has fallen on the New York City Fashion Week, which took place from September 7th to 13th, under the watchful eye of Elisabeth Prat, Director of Fashion at Peclers Paris.

In New York, what is generally appreciated the most is the perfect balance between wearability and creativity, exemplified by designers like Philipp Lim and Rachel Comey.

There is also a strong influence of the 90s, notably seen in the collections of Prada and Helmut Lang, offering a refined and understated minimalism, echoed in the designs of Altuzarra, Proenza Schouler and Sandy Liang. They showcase incredibly luxurious creations without unnecessary extravagance, providing an alternative to the flashy and sexy aesthetic of the Y2K era.

We also admire those who stand out with their unique visions of artificial intelligence, as demonstrated by Collina Strada, where new shapes are invented based on the brand’s data. Furthermore, the influences of the Dominican Republic street culture are evident in the creations of Luar.

PHILLIP LIM

Phillip Lim is one of the most realistic American designers, capable of striking a balance between everyday “American sportswear” and more dressed-up elements.

PROENZA SCHOULER

Proenza Schouler stands out by rejecting the constant pursuit of seasonal novelty in favor of refining their own signature. They have stated, “After completing our fall collection, we immediately knew that we truly wanted to preserve its essence.”

RACHEL COMEY

Rachel Comey collaborated with Joan Jonas, an octogenarian pioneer in multimedia and performance art, to create a special collection that stands out without being flashy.

SANDY LIANG

Sandy Liang, whose downtown princess uniform has become constant and instantly recognizable, often draws inspiration from the character of Cecilia Lisbon in “The Virgin Suicides.”

ALTUZARRA

At Altuzarra, the inspiration from the 1960s, evoking dolls and “Rosemary’s Baby,” strongly resonates with Miuccia Prada’s aesthetic. Their approach provides a wise alternative to the edgy sexual provocations of the Y2K era.

LUAR

Luar is at the intersection of formal and provocative fashion. It has been nominated by the CFDA in the “Women Designer of the Year” category. Its inspiration comes from the modest neighborhood in the Dominican Republic known as “El Hoyo” (which means “the hole” in Spanish).

COLLINA STRADA

To introduce images of Collina Strada‘s past looks into the Midjourney image generator, they used a series of text prompts with varying complexity to guide the process. By refining the results, they were able to create a collection that embodies the essence of Collina Strada: a frenetic clash of shapes and fabrics. The designer explained that AI had stimulated her creativity by pushing her to explore new directions. For her, the utility of AI lies not so much in producing impeccable and finished looks but in its ability to unexpectedly reinvent familiar ideas, thus producing results she might not have envisioned otherwise. She likened this experience to that of a child not limited by preconceived notions of how things should appear.

AI also influenced the shapes of the clothing, such as a corset-style dress that extended down the front to mimic the silhouette of a bodysuit. However, it’s worth noting that transforming digital renderings into physical garments presented a significant challenge. Shapes and textures could be difficult to replicate, and her team had to find matching fabrics while determining where to place seams and how to construct the pieces. It took four weeks to perfect the sleeve of a dress. Additionally, the AI-generated images showed only one angle, which meant that if Taymour could generate the front of a dress, she and her team still had to independently design the back to create a fully three-dimensional piece.

Discover the analysis of more than 600 shows from Fashion Week, Resort and Pre-fall around the world and their Women’s, Men’s, Accessories & Beauty summaries on our digital platform Peclers+, under subscription.